Fertilizer Programs for Container Culture forum: Fertilizing Containerized Plants

 
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bucketbob
Apr 19, 2010 1:05 PM CST
Name: Bob
Oklahoma City Ok Zone 7
Veggies container squarefoot garden
Thanks for taking the time for the great overview
A sign in a local community garden \"God provides the increase\"
Imagetapla
Apr 20, 2010 3:25 PM CST
Name: Al
5b-6a MI
You're very welcome, Bob.

Al
Imagecoconut
Apr 23, 2010 2:56 PM CST
Name: Melissa E. Keyes
St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands
Zone 11
What about charcoal?
Melissa

bucketbob
May 7, 2010 3:23 PM CST
Name: Bob
Oklahoma City Ok Zone 7
Veggies container squarefoot garden
I found some 15 5 10 with a trace of sulfur

the nursery garden center recommends the 10 20 10

for containers
i want some for self watering e-buckets and earth boxes

I am having trouble finding straight 10 10 10 etc.

It seems the first meets Al's formula ??? maybe kinda ?

A sign in a local community garden \"God provides the increase\"
Imagecoconut
May 7, 2010 4:16 PM CST
Name: Melissa E. Keyes
St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands
Zone 11
BB, sure, if you're growing Dark Leafy Greens. You would get zero tomatoes from that. Go to a decent farming/gardening center, not Lowes or any Big Box place.

The first one you said is for a greeeeen lawn.

10-20-10 will work.

I'm seeking potash, and will have to buy it off the internet, grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Melissa

ImageRickCorey
Dec 3, 2012 8:35 PM CST
Name: Rick Corey
Pacific NorthWet Zone 8a
My question is about how to measure dry fertilizers. I saw you say:
>> most liquid fertilizers can be applied at ¾ to 1 tsp per gallon

Around how much Miracle-Gro or Peters do you use per gallon? (in tsp or grams or ounces)

I took to heart the advice that "strength" is best gauged by the N number. If you use 1 tsp/gallon of 12-4-8, I would use 1/2 tsp of 24-x-x

Since I never knew if I was on the "storng" side or the "weak" side, I would give the plants a rest after going through on batch, and give them one watering of 1/2 strength, plus intemitent waterings with straight tap water. I was more worried about N and saline toxicity than i was about sub-optimum growtgh rates.

I never saw obvious leaf burn, or gross yellowing.

I lost my notebook from decades ago, and I forget how many tablespoons or grams I used when I made a 5-gallon batch of 8X or 16X concentrate.

The c oncentrated batch would always be strongly acid. 6? 5?? I would adjust the 5 gallon batch to near-neutral with pH paper and a jar of diluted hydrated lime. It seemed that diluting a quart or half gallon of that mix up to 4 gallons with tap water would give me a slightly acid mix.

I always worried that the small amount of solids that formed were not just unconsumed lime, but possibly precipitated nutrients.

The open buckets of diluted fertilizer seemed to absorb CO2 from the air, because they became more ac id and more solids formed. Now I would guess that algae or bacteria were growing.

I think I saw that Mg was deficient in the commercial soluble fertilizers I tried. I used to rotate several, hoping their deficiencies would cancel out,. but I still had to foliar-spray or dissolve some extra MgSO4.

I suspect that I didn't keep the pH well balanced, despite using pH paper. Iron was often deficient even if I used fertilizers with chelated iron. Foliar spray con firmed that iron was the probem.

ImageGerris2
Dec 4, 2012 6:38 AM CST
Name: Joseph
Zone 7a Delaware USA
Do you mix a big batch of fertilizer solution and store it, using it over time? I can see where this method would be a time saver. I use a dry fertilizer called Rick's something or other but only mix as much as I need for that feeding session. Unfortunately I do not remember the NPK formula but it's a general purpose plant food.
ImageRickCorey
Dec 4, 2012 1:40 PM CST
Name: Rick Corey
Pacific NorthWet Zone 8a
>> Do you mix a big batch of fertilizer solution and store it, using it over time?

Yes, in part becuase I felt I should neutralize the pretty-acid fertilizer. Doing it in one big batch was easier, especially since I gave it 5-10 minutes to "settle". The hydrated lime was mostly or partly solid (not immediatly soluble), so I gave it time to react.

I started by making only "8X". Then I went to "16X". I tried "32X" once or twice, but worried about what poorly-soluble nutirents might be preciptiating.

I knew how many tablespoons of each kind of fertilizer I wanted for each batch, weighed that, and used the same weight for future batches. I also kep track of how much hydrated lime it took to neutralize that much Peter's or MG, so that it took fewer "titration" steps each time.

I would mix the batch in my biggest bucket (5 gallons). Then I stored it in capped, one-gallon milk jugs to reduce absorbtion of CO2. I would make 4-gallon batches of "1X" when I needed them.

Back then I arrived at (guessed at) some middle-of-the-road strength, and varied that with some diluted waterings and some plain water.

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