Viewing post #931301 by RickCorey
|My question is about how to measure dry fertilizers. I saw you say:
>> most liquid fertilizers can be applied at ¾ to 1 tsp per gallon
Around how much Miracle-Gro or Peters do you use per gallon? (in tsp or grams or ounces)
I took to heart the advice that "strength" is best gauged by the N number. If you use 1 tsp/gallon of 12-4-8, I would use 1/2 tsp of 24-x-x
Since I never knew if I was on the "storng" side or the "weak" side, I would give the plants a rest after going through on batch, and give them one watering of 1/2 strength, plus intemitent waterings with straight tap water. I was more worried about N and saline toxicity than i was about sub-optimum growtgh rates.
I never saw obvious leaf burn, or gross yellowing.
I lost my notebook from decades ago, and I forget how many tablespoons or grams I used when I made a 5-gallon batch of 8X or 16X concentrate.
The c oncentrated batch would always be strongly acid. 6? 5?? I would adjust the 5 gallon batch to near-neutral with pH paper and a jar of diluted hydrated lime. It seemed that diluting a quart or half gallon of that mix up to 4 gallons with tap water would give me a slightly acid mix.
I always worried that the small amount of solids that formed were not just unconsumed lime, but possibly precipitated nutrients.
The open buckets of diluted fertilizer seemed to absorb CO2 from the air, because they became more ac id and more solids formed. Now I would guess that algae or bacteria were growing.
I think I saw that Mg was deficient in the commercial soluble fertilizers I tried. I used to rotate several, hoping their deficiencies would cancel out,. but I still had to foliar-spray or dissolve some extra MgSO4.
I suspect that I didn't keep the pH well balanced, despite using pH paper. Iron was often deficient even if I used fertilizers with chelated iron. Foliar spray con firmed that iron was the probem.
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