Viewing post #1115914 by RickCorey

You are viewing a single post made by RickCorey in the thread called Seed Arrival -- Let's chat about it #6.
ImageRickCorey
Jan 22, 2015 6:45 PM CST
Name: Rick Corey
Pacific NorthWet Zone 8a
I finally caught up on the #5 chat thread, and here we are at #6!


LeBug, there is an over-kill method for equalizing presure on a slope. Bring the main line all the way up the slope. Say that has 40 psi at the bottom and 30 psi at the top (23 feet of rise).

Then put Tees and 30 psi pressure regulators every 5-10 feet along the mainline, and run horizontal soaker hoses from each 30 psi regulator. Expensive and some work!

Or use pressure-compensating dripline, 1/4" or 1/2". Or pressure-compensating sprayers if wtaer is not too expensive. Those emit almost the same amount over some pressure rnage like 15-30 psi. PC drippers and sprayers may also be more clog-resistant than non-PC drippers.


Promise, once seedlings have put ANY green abiove the soil line, even just seedling leaves, it is best to remove any humidity hood or plastic film. Now that they have emerged, humidity is their enemy since it encourages damping off. A small fan, or intermittent fan, or drafts are all good for seedlings unless your air is bone-dry and hot or warm.


GA-3
I read somewhere, I think in one of Dr Deno's books, a rationale for why GA-3 is helpful to alpine seeds. They needed a mechanism that would let seeds blow around on rocky surfaces until they wound up somewhere a seedling might find a bit of soil.

On those slopes, soil comes from lichens breaking down rock into flakes, grit and sand. For example, a dip or crack in the rock where grit and soil and lichens can wash in and collect.

His idea was that plants evolved seeds that could detect GA-3, (which is mostly only produced by lichens). The seeds "knew" their chances were better where lichens were, than on a bare rocky slope. I would call that "co-evolution".


Andy said:
>> I need to study growing oriental vegetables so that I plant them at the right time. Does anyone have any favorite links?

Brassicas are mostly cool-season crops, and many are cold-hardy. For example, Tatsoi, Komatsuna and Bok Choy are frost-hardy. Cold and heat tolerance vary by variety - they are bred and selected for early and late cool, cold and warm seasons.

I see advice for direct-sowing Bok Choy before the last frost, plus every few weeks until mature plants would hit excessive summer heat. But I'm not that ambitious. I sow after the last frost. You can also sow in late summer or fall, and expect them to survive through a few frosts.

Keep their soil moist!

Chinese cabbage are fussier about temperatures and day-length - mostly fall crops or need to be started indoors. For those (Napa and Michihli) I would look up local advice.

As a first approximation, you can plant Asian Brassica greens a little like broccoli, but I think many are more cold-hardy than broccoli (I have never grown broccoli.)


Seed sprouts and microgreens are naturals for seed-savers. Let some bolt and collect lots of seeds for next season. If 10-20 % cross-pollinate, well gee, adding variety to a salad mix, how tragic would that be?

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